Aglaonema Plant Care Guide
Aglaonema — Noun
Aglaonema is a genus of poisonous flowering plants in the Arum family, Araceae. They are native to tropical and subtropical areas of Asia and New Guinea.
Pronounced: Ag — Lay — O — Neem — Ah
Genus: Aglaonema is a genus of over 22 recognized species of Indo-Malayan herbs in the Arum (Aroid, Araceae) family, characterized by thick, succulent-like fleshy oblong leaves and unisexual spadix flowers protected by a spathe.
First Use: The first known use of the word Aglaonema was in 1834.
Name Meaning: Borrowed from New Latin, from Greek 'aglaós' which means 'splendid, beautiful, bright, shiny' combined with the New Latin 'nema' which means 'thread'. It is thought that the name refers to the flowers, roughly translating to 'shiny bright threads'.
Otherwise known as:
Chinese Evergreens
Green-For-Ten-Thousand-Years
Lily of China
Overview: Aglaonema plants are a favourite here in the office at The Houseplant Shop—we're all totally obsessed. From blue to red, yellow to orange, white to silver—no matter what your favourite colour is, you'll find a Chinese Evergreen to match your style. They're very easy to care for and can survive low lighting, which makes them perfect beginner houseplants for the less green-fingered people out there.
Aglaonema 'White Kiwi'
Figures
Ultimate height
0.5–1 metres
Ultimate spread
0.5–1 metres
Time to ultimate height
2–5 years
Aglaonema lifespan
10+ years
Aglaonema Plant Facts & Figures
In The Pot
Soil
Sand
Loam
Chalk
Moisture
Well–draining soil
pH
Acid, Alkaline, Neutral
Out Of The Pot
Windows
Any window without direct sun is suitable, however, lower light may cause colour changes, slower growth, and a more leggy stem. Smaller plants without without adequate lighting could potentially experience health issues
Exposure
Sheltered
Hardiness
Can be grown outside in the summer, but Aglaonema can't tolerate low temperatures or frosts.
Temperature Tolerance: 15 °C (59 °F) – 29 °C (84.2 °F)
Facts
Family
Arum family, Araceae.
Native to GB / Ireland
No — Native to Asia & New Guinea
Foliage & Habit
Evergreen. Upright, columnar, clump forming.
Safety
Poisonous. Sap can cause skin & eye irritation.
How To Safely Handle Poisonous Aglaonema Plants
Aglaonemas contain a toxic sap that can be harmful if ingested or if it comes into contact with the skin. Whilst the sap is not as strong as Dieffenbachia plants, who earned the nickname 'Dumb Cane' for their sap strength, the sap is still strong enough to cause issues. We advise caution when handling Aglaonema sap. Wear gloves when handling, wash your hands after touching sap, and keep out of reach of children and pets. Educate family members so that they know not to touch them and what will happen if they do.
Toxicity Overview: Aglaonema plants are part of the Araceae family, which includes many other common houseplants that produce calcium oxalate crystals, including Dieffenbachia, Pothos, Scindapsus, Philodendron, Monstera, Alocasia, and Peace Lilies. These crystals are what make the sap of these plants toxic. When the plant's tissues are damaged, these needle-like crystals are released, causing irritation. Dieffenbachia is the worst plant for toxicity levels, followed by Aglaonema, however, we still advise exercising caution when handling Aglaonema plants. The other plants in the Araceae family do still contain calcium oxalate but in much lower quantities, so they're still inedible, but it's much safer to handle their sap without gloves.
Symptoms of Exposure: If the sap comes into contact with the skin, it can cause irritation, redness, and itching. Ingestion can lead to a burning sensation in the mouth, difficulty swallowing, and swelling of the throat. It’s important to wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant and to avoid touching your face. Cats and dogs may also be affected if they chew on the leaves or stems. Symptoms in pets can include drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. In severe cases, it can lead to more serious health issues requiring veterinary attention.
Aglaonema 'Greenlight'
Aglaonema 'Silver Bay'
Aglaonema Lighting
Aglaonemas are popular houseplants thanks to their stunning foliage and adaptability. One of the most important factors in keeping your Aglaonema healthy is providing the right lighting. Here’s a detailed guide to ensure your Aglaonema stays bright and beautiful by getting the best light possible:
Aglaonema Lighting Requirements
Aglaonemas thrive in low to moderate light conditions, making them perfect for areas of your home that do not receive direct sunlight. Commercial growers in the Netherlands tend to grow them under 60% shade cloths. These plants can do well in places with less sunlight. They are good for offices and rooms with fewer windows. But if they change colour or pattern, it might mean there isn't enough lighting for them.
Ideal Aglaonema Light Conditions
Indirect Light: Aglaonemas prefer bright, indirect light. Place them near a north or east-facing window where they can receive ample natural light without being exposed to the harsh rays of the sun. Direct sunlight can scorch their leaves and cause them to lose their vibrant colours and patterns. Sunlight can even burn the leaves and cause them to die in extreme cases. If in doubt, move your plant 1-2 foot away from the window and monitor it closely for any further issues.
Low Light Tolerance: One of the key reasons that Aglaonema plants are beloved worldwide is their brilliant ability to tolerate low light conditions. While they may not grow as quickly or develop as vivid foliage in lower light, they will still survive and add beauty to your space.
Artificial Light: If your home lacks natural light, Aglaonemas can also thrive under fluorescent lighting or LED grow lights. This makes them perfect for office environments or spaces with limited access to windows. Ensure they receive about 12–14 hours of artificial light daily to mimic their natural growing conditions and watch for loss of colour or patterns — if this occurs, move your plant closer to the light source or add more lighting.
Aglaonema Signs of Improper Lighting
Aglaonema Has Yellowing Leaves: If your Aglaonemas leaves start to yellow, it may be a sign of too much direct sunlight. Move the plant to a location with less intense light or add supplemental LED lighting.
Aglaonema Has Leggy Growth: If the stems are stretching out and the plant appears sparse, it might be an indication that it’s not receiving enough light. Relocate the plant to a brighter spot or add a LED bulb. This could also be an indication of your Aglaonema needing a good hard prune to stop the stem becoming too much like a cane without any leaves. Please read our care guide before pruning as the sap can be dangerous.
Aglaonema Has Faded Colours & Patterns: When Aglaonemas are not getting enough light, their vibrant leaf colours and patterns may fade. Increasing the light exposure can help restore their striking appearance. The reason this happens is that the plant is trying to produce more chlorophyll, which are the cells that make food from light. This allows the plant to photosynthesise more effectively, allowing the plant to convert more light to food. You can see this happening when the coloured areas of the leaves start to go green.
Adjusting Aglaonema Lighting for Seasonal Changes
As the seasons change, so does the intensity and duration of natural light. During the winter months, when light levels are lower, you may need to move your Aglaonema closer to a light source. In the summer, ensure it is protected from direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' or 'Cutlass'
Aglaonema 'Silver Blue' With Flower
How Often To Water Aglaonema
Aglaonemas prefer consistent moisture, but dislike being waterlogged. They thrive in well-draining soil that retains some moisture but allows excess water to escape. Striking the right balance is key to preventing common issues like root rot or leaf yellowing.
How Often to Water Aglaonema
Spring and Summer: During the growing season, water your Aglaonema when the top 1 inch (2.54 cm) of soil feel dry to the touch. This typically means watering once a week, but it can vary depending on your home's humidity and temperature.
Autumn and Winter: In the cooler months, Aglaonemas enter a period of slower growth and require less frequent watering. Check the soil moisture every 10–14 days, and water only when the top 2 inches (5.08 cm) of soil are dry.
Aglaonema Watering Tips
Check the Soil: Always check the soil moisture before watering. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. You can purchase a testing meter for moisture, which will take the hard work out of knowing when to water.
Use Dechlorinator: A good quality plant safe dechlorinator ensures that there isn't any chemicals left in your tap water.
Room Temperature Water: Always use water that has sat out and got to room temperature, as cold water can shock the roots.
Water Thoroughly: When watering, do so thoroughly until water drains out of the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root system is hydrated. Never let the plant sit with soggy, wet roots for longer than 24 hours — we recommend checking the day after watering and emptying out any excess water.
Avoid Overwatering: Allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering to prevent root rot. Aglaonemas are more tolerant of under watering than overwatering — they don't like to have wet feet.
Watering an Aglaonema plant
Signs of Watering Issues in Aglaonema
Yellowing Leaves: This can indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Ensure your pot has drainage holes and that you're allowing the soil to dry out slightly between watering. Use a soil mix recipe designed for Aglaonemas.
Wilting or Drooping Leaves: This may be a sign of under watering. Check the soil moisture and adjust your watering routine as needed.
Brown Leaf Tips: This can result from low humidity or inconsistent watering. Increase humidity around the plant and ensure you're watering consistently.
Aglaonema 'Red Fire'
Aglaonema 'Strawberry Baby'
Aglaonema Humidity
Aglaonemas prefer a humidity level of around 60-70%. This replicates their natural tropical habitat and helps keep their foliage lush and vibrant. Higher humidity levels can prevent the common issue of brown leaf tips, which is a sign of dry air.
To ensure your Aglaonema is getting the right humidity, consider using a hygrometer. This tool measures the humidity level in your home, helping you to adjust conditions as needed. Regularly monitoring and maintaining the right humidity will help prevent common issues such as brown leaf tips and promote healthier growth.
Tips To Increase Humidity For Aglaonema Plants
Misting: Lightly misting your Aglaonema with water can help to increase humidity around the plant. Use a spray bottle to mist the leaves, especially during the drier months or if you live in a region with low humidity. Do this in the evening after the sun has gone down. Leave enough time before the sun comes up to prevent bacteria and fungal diseases from growing on the leaves.
Humidity Trays or Bowls: Use bowls of water placed near the Aglaonema to increase humidity around the plant. You can also create a humidity tray by placing a layer of pebbles in a shallow tray and filling it with water. Set your Aglaonema's pot on top of the pebbles, ensuring the pot is above the water line. As the water evaporates, it will increase the humidity around the plant.
Humidifiers: Using an electric humidifier is an effective way to maintain consistent humidity levels. Place a humidifier near your Aglaonema to ensure the air stays moist and comfortable, ensuring to monitor that it doesn't get too humid either. A humidity meter can help with this if your humidifier doesn't have a sensor.
Grouping Plants: Placing several plants together can create a microclimate with higher humidity. The natural transpiration from the plants’ leaves will help to humidify the surrounding air. This is a trade secret that we swear by here at The Houseplant Shop.
Avoid Drafts: Keep your Aglaonema away from drafts and direct air from heating or cooling vents, as these can dry out the air and lower humidity levels around the plant, undoing any work you've done to increase the humidity.
Aglaonema 'Stripes' & Aglaonema 'White Kiwi'
Aglaonema 'Zebra Feathers'
The Right Temperature For Aglaonema Plants
Aglaonemas prefer temperatures between 15 °C (59 °F) – 29 °C (84.2 °F). Chinese Evergreens are relatively hardy, but extreme temperature drops should be avoided. This range mimics their natural tropical habitat and promotes robust growth and vibrant foliage. Aglaonema plants don't like cold temperatures and can suffer extreme damage after only short periods of exposure to low temperatures. Therefore, it's really important to ensure that your Chinese Evergreen is in a suitable environment over the cooler months.
Avoiding Temperature Extremes For Aglaonema
Cold Temperatures: Aglaonemas are sensitive to cold and can suffer physical damage if exposed to temperatures below 15 °C (59 °F). Temps below this range could cause the plant to drop leaves and develop brown, crispy edges. Cold drafts from windows or doors during the winter months can also be harmful, so make sure to place your plant away from any sources of cold air.
Hot Temperatures: While Aglaonemas can tolerate higher temperatures, prolonged exposure to temperatures above 30 °C (86 °F) can cause too much stress for the plant. Ensure your plant is not placed near heat sources like radiators or heaters, which can dry out the air and overheat the plant. Even a short period of high heat can do intense damage to foliage and stunts growth.
Providing a Stable Environment
Like most houseplants, consistency is key for Aglaonemas. Try to keep the temperatures as stable as possible, avoiding drastic fluctuations. Rapid changes in temperature can cause stress, leading to problems such as leaf drop or yellowing leaves. Monitor temperatures using a digital meter that records a 24-hr average so that you can see what's happening even when you're not there.
Seasonal Adjustments For Aglaonema Plants
During the cooler months, make sure your Aglaonema is placed in a warm spot away from drafts and cold windows. In the summer, ensure it is protected from excessive heat and direct sunlight, which can cause leaf scorch. If you have moved your Chinese Evergreens to a south window over the winter, don't forget to move them away before the sun heats up again in spring.
Signs Of Aglaonema Temperature Stress
Aglaonema Yellowing Leaves: This can be a sign of cold stress or exposure to drafts. Ensure your plant is kept in a warm, stable environment.
Aglaonema Dropping Leaves: Sudden changes in temperature can cause the plant to shed leaves. Check for any sources of drafts or rapid temperature changes.
Aglaonema Has Brown, Crispy Leaves: This can indicate heat stress. Move the plant to a cooler location and ensure it’s not near a heat source.
Aglaonema Plant Wilting: Aglaonema plants do not like the cold and can die if they're exposed to cold temperatures even for a short time.
Aglaonema 'Spotted Star'
Aglaonema 'Red Star'
Repotting & Substrate — DIY Soil Mix For Aglaonema
To ensure your Aglaonema thrives, it's crucial to provide the right type of soil, as it can make the difference between a plant that merely survives and one that truly thrives. We do not use or recommend peat due to environmental concerns, so all of our soil recipes are wildlife friendly as well as Aglaonema friendly!
The Best Soil Type For Aglaonemas:
Soil vs. Soilless Mix for Aglaonema: It can be easier to maintain Aglaonema in a soilless mix without compost, as compost is often contaminated with pest eggs and unwanted guests. Coco coir is a great alternative to compost, boasting antifungal properties that help prevent root rot and being completely inert, which means pests cannot survive in it.
Commercial Soil & Choosing a Well-Draining Mix: When using pre-mixed commercial soil, Aglaonema prefer well-draining soil to prevent the dreaded root rot. Like most Aroids, Aglaonema love chunky, airy soil. In the wild, Chinese Evergreens thrive in a bark-filled, chunky soil, which is what we are aiming to replicate at home. If you can't find a pre-mixed bag suitable, try our DIY soil mix recipes.
Easy DIY Soil Mix Recipe for Aglaonema: For a basic mix, add: 1 litre of coco coir, 1 litre of compost, 1 litre of perlite and 1 litre of orchid bark. Scale this soil recipe up until you have enough litres of soil to fill your new pot.
Advanced DIY Soil Mix for Aglaonema: Our favourite recipe for Aglaonema uses a more complex mix: 4 litres of coco coir, 4 litres of perlite, 4 litres of orchid bark, 2 litres of Lecca balls and 1 litre of worm castings. You can also add 1 litre each of pumice, activated charcoal, and unscented zeolite.
Sourcing Soil Mix Ingredients: If you can't find these ingredients locally or if you are the online shopping type, you can buy the soil mix components online here: Small Coco Coir Pack — Bulk Coco Coir Pack, Orchid Bark, Pumice, Horticultural Sand, Horticultural Grit, Worm Castings, Perlite, Lecca Balls, Activated Charcoal, Zeolite
Rich in Organic Matter: A soil mix rich in organic matter will provide necessary nutrients for your Aglaonema. Adding a handful of worm castings to your potting mix can provide a natural source of organic matter, or alternatively, you can add compost. If you don't add a source of organic food, use a plant food like Ionic Formulex once a week to add in the nutrients that would usually come from the soil itself.
Neutral pH: Aim for a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5 with Aglaonema plants. Using the ingredients listed in our soil recipes above should give you a neutral pH. If you're buying pre-mixed commercial soil, check the bag for the pH reading.
Preparing to Pot Up Your Aglaonema:
Inspect The Root Ball: Check your Aglaonemas root ball out of the plastic plant pot. If your plant doesn't have visible roots around the edge, it probably doesn't need repotting. If your roots look soggy and brown, you might have root rot issues. Cut off the mushy roots and consider repotting into a smaller pot to prevent further damage.
Choose the Right Size Pot: Select a pot with drainage holes to prevent water from sitting at the bottom and causing root rot. Always select a pot no more than 1 inch (2.54 cm) larger than the current root ball. If there's no visible roots around the outside of the soil, it isn't time to pot up yet.
Prepare the Soil Mix: Combine your DIY soil mix together in a bucket or large container. If you purchased a commercial substrate mix, open your soil bag so you are ready to pot up your Aglaonema.
Potting Process:
Prepare the Pot: Place a small handful of soil at the bottom of the pot but leave the rest empty for now.
Prepare the Aglaonema Plant: Gently remove the Aglaonema plant from its current pot, being very careful not to damage the root ball. Place the plant in the new pot on top of the small handful of soil.
Fill Around the Roots: Add more soil mix around the edges of the Aglaonema roots, leaving roughly 1 inch (2.54 cm) of free space in the top of your pot. Press the soil down gently to eliminate air pockets. Don't press too hard, as the soil can end up too dense, which can be detrimental to root health.
Water: Water the Aglaonema plant thoroughly, allowing excess water to drain out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. If your pot doesn't drain well enough, never be afraid to drill extra holes in it using a size 4-6 wood drill bit. Let the water drain fully for 10 minutes before disposing of any excess water.
Aglaonema 'Amazon Silver'
Aglaonema 'Red Valentine'
Fertilizer For Aglaonema Plants & How Often To Feed
Even the easiest of plants need a bit of love now and then. For your Aglaonema, that means providing some plant food to keep those colours vibrant and those leaves healthy. Think of plant food as a vitamin boost—it’s what takes your Aglaonema from “meh” to “wow!”. Here are some great options for fertilizing your Aglaonema:
Balanced Liquid Fertilizer:
A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, such as 20-20-20 or 10-10-10, is ideal for Aglaonema plants. This offers a good mix of nutrients for general plant health. The Houseplant Shop exclusively uses Formulex Fertilizer. It delivers great results with our young and old Aglaonema alike.
Slow-Release Fertilizer:
For a low-maintenance Aglaonema food option, consider a slow-release granular fertilizer. Mix the granules into the soil mix, gradually, it will release nutrients and allow the plant to take in a balanced diet.
Organic Fertilizer:
Organic plant food choices like organic seaweed extract, or organic worm castings are also effective. These Aglaonema fertilizers are a little gentler than liquid plant food additives, whilst still providing essential micronutrients and macronutrients that promote healthy growth.
Biofertilizers:
A more natural solution for feeding your Chinese Evergreen includes feeds containing microorganisms. When added to the soil, they boost soil fertility and promote plant growth. At The Houseplant Shop, we use biofertilizers as stress reducers when repotting, moving, or pruning plants, but we don't solely rely on biofertilizers as they don't contain a complete spectrum of nutrients for Aglaonema plants.
Feeding Schedule:
Spring and Summer: Feed Aglaonema plants every 4–6 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This is the Chinese Evergreens active growth season, so using fertilizer during these months will encourage a burst of new growth.
Autumn and Winter: During the colder months, Aglaonema plants need less food. Cut back to every 8–10 weeks, dilute your feed by adding 50% less fertilizer concentrate, or even pause feeding completely to keep everything balanced.
Aglaonema 'Stripes'
Aglaonema 'Greyhound'
How To Prune Aglaonema Plants
Pruning is an essential aspect of Aglaonema care that promotes healthy growth, prevents disease, and keeps your plant looking its best. Here’s a comprehensive guide to pruning your Aglaonema.
Why Prune Your Aglaonema
Pruning helps maintain the shape and size of your Aglaonema, encouraging it to grow more robustly. It also removes dead, yellowing, or damaged leaves, which can help prevent disease and pest infestations. Regular pruning keeps your Aglaonema looking lush and attractive.
Aglaonema Growing With No Leaves On Stem
If your Aglaonema has too much cane with no leaves, then it may be time for a hard prune to promote it to bush out and grow more densely. If your Aglaonema has too much stem, the easiest way to fix this is to cut the plant back to the base and allow it to start again. This will force your Aglaonema to grow leaves on the stem again and prevent long leafless canes. One of the hardest parts of owning an Aglaonema is managing the stem growing too long with no leaves on it, unfortunately, it is something that most Chinese Evergreen owners eventually face. Never be afraid to chop your Aglaonema off at the base to prevent it from growing too tall with no leaves on the lower parts of the stem. Put cut off stems into water to propagate them, eventually adding them back into the pot to help create a more dense foliage in the Aglaonemas pot.
When to Prune Aglaonema
Prune your Aglaonema throughout the year as needed, but the best time for more substantial pruning is during the spring and summer growing seasons. This is when the plant is most active and can recover quickly from pruning. If you're chopping your Aglaonema back to the base to encourage it to grow more leaves on the stem, avoid doing this in the winter. Should you have to prune mid-winter, make sure to keep it somewhere warm with good lighting.
Aglaonema Sap is Poisonous
How To Manage Working With Toxic Sap
Aglaonemas contain a toxic sap that can be harmful if ingested or if it comes into contact with the skin, causing irritation, redness, and itching. Ingestion leads to burning sensations in the mouth, difficulty swallowing, and swelling of the throat. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant, and avoid touching your face. Cats and dogs may be affected if they chew the leaves or stems. Symptoms in pets can include drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. In severe cases, it can lead to serious health issues requiring veterinary attention. For more information, see our Aglaonema sap safety guide.
How to Prune Your Aglaonema
Plant Pruning Tools: Use clean, sharp pruning shears. To prevent the spread of disease, disinfect your pruning shears before and after use. You can use rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach solution.
Identify Dead or Yellowing Leaves: Look for any leaves that are yellowing, browning, or damaged. These leaves should be removed to keep the plant healthy and to enhance the appearance.
Cut Close to the Base: When removing a leaf, make your cut close to the base of the stem. This prevents leaving unsightly stubs. Always wipe your pruning shears in-between each cut to prevent the spread of bacterial and fungal diseases.
Trim Leggy Growth: If your Aglaonema has become leggy with long stems and sparse leaves, trim back the stems to encourage bushier growth. Cut just above a node (where a leaf joins the stem) to promote new growth from that point. Move your plant to a brighter spot to avoid leggy growth. Sometimes, Aglaonema can shed their lower leaves, getting a tree trunk like cane appearance. If you don't like this, cut your plant back to the base, leaving around 5 inches (ca. 13 cm) of stem in the spring. This allows it to regrow from the bottom and promotes bushier, denser growth.
Shape the Plant: Prune to maintain the shape and size of your Aglaonema. If it has grown too large for your space, you can selectively remove some larger leaves or stems to keep it compact. Try not to worry if your plant's new look is a little drastic — it will grow back quickly after a hard prune with the right aftercare.
Aglaonema Pruning Aftercare
After pruning, provide your Aglaonema with good basic plant care to help it recover as quickly as possible:
Watering: Water your plant thoroughly after pruning to help it recover and encourage new growth. Visit our Aglaonema watering guide for more information.
Lighting: Ensure your Aglaonema is in a spot with bright, indirect light to support its recovery. Visit our Aglaonema lighting guide for more information.
Feeding: Consider feeding your plant with a balanced, water-soluble Aglaonema friendly fertilizer to give it a boost after pruning. Visit our Aglaonema fertilizer guide for more information.
Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid
Over-Pruning: Avoid cutting back too much of your Chinese Evergreen at once. Removing more than one-third of the plant’s foliage at a time can stress the plant and cause long term stunted growth or even a total loss of the plant.
Leaving Stubs & Disease Prevention: Make clean cuts close to the base of the stem to prevent long stubs. Always wipe your pruning shears in-between each cut to prevent the spread of bacterial and fungal diseases. If the stub doesn't want to come off, don't force it. Leave it to turn yellow, and it will come away much easier, but be careful not to leave it there for so long that it starts to rot, as this can cause diseases and attract pests.
Neglecting to Disinfect Pruning Shears: Always disinfect your pruning tools to prevent the spread of pathogens. It's good form to wipe blades in-between each individual cut, plus before and after use with a disinfectant to help prevent spreading disease, bacteria, and fungus.
Aglaonema 'Ghost' or 'Aqua Green'
Aglaonema 'Spotted Star'
Aglaonema White Kiwi
Propagating Aglaonema Plants
Propagating Aglaonemas is a little different to most plants, as you can't take a leaf or node cutting. Chinese Evergreens are usually propagated via division or stem cuttings. These propagation methods can seem a little scary at first, however, they're a reliable way to propagate your Aglaonema with high success rates. At The Houseplant Shop, we prefer stem cuttings as our favourite method to reproduce Chinese Evergreens.
Aglaonema Sap is Poisonous
How To Manage Working With Toxic Sap
Aglaonemas contain a toxic sap that can be harmful if ingested or if it comes into contact with the skin, causing irritation, redness, and itching. Ingestion leads to burning sensations in the mouth, difficulty swallowing, and swelling of the throat. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant, and avoid touching your face. Cats and dogs may be affected if they chew the leaves or stems. Symptoms in pets can include drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. In severe cases, it can lead to serious health issues requiring veterinary attention. For more information, see our Aglaonema sap safety guide.
Propagating Aglaonema Via Division
This is the easiest and most common method for propagating Aglaonemas. It involves dividing the plant's root clump to create new plants. Be careful not to snap stems, as this can cause the stem to die off, forcing you to regrow them from a stump. Luckily, Aglaonemas are perennial so if you cut the foliage off, as long as it's warm enough it will grow back.
Division Propagation Method:
Prepare Your Tools: Gather a clean, sharp knife or set of pruning shears, and a few small pots with some well-draining soil prepared.
Remove the Plant: Gently remove the Aglaonema from its pot. Be careful not to damage the roots as you remove it.
Divide the Plant: Look for natural divisions in the root clump where pups have formed. Using your knife or shears, carefully separate these sections, cutting through the roots and any joins in the stems, ensuring that each division has several leaves and a good root system. Like most Aroids, if you don't leave any nodes on a stem, it won't grow and your cutting will fail.
Pot the Divisions: Plant each division in a small pot filled with well-draining soil. Water the newly potted plants thoroughly. Alternatively, put them in a jar of room temperature dechlorinated water. Cuttings usually take a few weeks to develop enough roots in water to be transplanted to soil. You can tell when they're ready by checking if the main roots have baby new roots coming off of them. If you see big roots sending out baby new roots, you're ready.
Care for the New Plants: Place the new pots in a location with bright, indirect light suitable for Aglaonema plants. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until the plants are well-established. If using a jar of water, change half of the water once a week. Although many sources online would tell you to do this every 3 days, this actually slows down root development by forcing the plant to reproduce the rooting hormones in the water each time you change it. For this reason, we never change all of our cutting water. A trade secret is that we actually use old cutting water as a rooting agent for new cuttings — we always mix some old water in with a new jar of freshly cut plants.
Propagating Aglaonema Via Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings can be used to propagate Aglaonemas, although this method requires a bit more patience and can be a little trickier. The bonus to this method of propagation is that the mother plant (the one you took the cutting from) grows back bushier and more dense after taking cuttings. Each stem cut on an Aglaonema usually gives you two new growth points, so by cutting one stem, you're gaining two new stems back over time.
Stem Propagation Method:
Select a Healthy Stem: Choose a healthy stem with at least two to three leaves. Try to only use healthy leaves, as any minor stresses will be exasperated once cut, which could lead to total failure of that cutting.
Cut the Stem: Using a clean, sharp knife or a set of pruners, cut the stem just below a node (the point where a leaf joins the stem). If you don't leave a node on the stem, the plant won't be able to form roots.
Prepare the Cutting: Remove the lower leaves from the cutting, leaving at least one or two leaves at the top. Two is always better than one as it gives you faster foliage growth rates and the cutting is quicker to establish roots.
Optional Rooting Hormone: Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone to encourage root development. We mix our rooting hormone with Mycorrhizal Fungi, which encourages faster root growth by promoting good soil health.
Plant the Cutting: Place the stem cutting in a pot filled with well-draining Aglaonema soil. Alternatively, you can place the cutting in water until roots develop, then transfer it to soil. You know It's ready to transfer when the main thick roots have tiny baby roots coming off of them.
Provide the Right Conditions: Keep the cutting in bright, indirect light suitable for Aglaonema plants and maintain high humidity. Covering the pot with a clear plastic bag can help create a humid environment.
Watering: Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. If rooting in water, change half of the water every week. We don't recommend following the common advice online of changing your water every 3 days, as the water contains natural rooting hormones that the plant produces. Emptying the water too often can cause your cutting to halt root development to produce extra rooting hormones to replace what you emptied out, stunting growth and delaying root development.
Transplanting: Once roots have developed, transplant the cutting to a larger pot with a well-draining Chinese Evergreen soil mix. It usually takes a few weeks for roots to develop ready for transplanting, but in the right environmental conditions, your cutting may be ready sooner.
Tips for Successful Propagation
Clean Tools: Always use clean, sharp tools to prevent disease and ensure clean cuts.
Humidity: High humidity levels aid in the rooting process. Consider using a humidity tray or misting the cuttings regularly.
Patience: Be patient and allow time for the roots to develop. Some cuttings may take longer to root than others.
Aglaonema Maria 14 Days After Stem Propagation
Aglaonema Maria 40 Days After Stem Propagation
Aglaonema Maria Stem Cuttings In Water 14 Days After Propagation
Aglaonema Maria Stem Cuttings In Water 40 Days After Propagation
Aglaonema 'Prosperity'
Aglaonema 'Jazzy Red'
Aglaonema Pests & Problems
DIY Pesticide vs Shop Bought Pesticide For Aglaonema:
Natural Leaf Wipe: As a natural preventative and spot treatment, you can wipe leaves with undiluted pure neem oil to give them a gentle shine whilst deterring any pests. This is best used a supplemental treatment if you have an established infestation, and as a preventative once you have eradicated the pests.
Instant Death: Spot dab plant pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to instantly finish them off. This is a tried and tested classic method, well-loved worldwide. If the pests don't instantly die when they're drenched in the liquid, pick them off the Aglaonema and put them into a container with enough alcohol to completely cover them — few pests can survive that.
Natural Homemade DIY Pesticide: If you’re having pest issues with your Aglaonema, we recommend an insecticidal soap based approach as a first line of defence, as it's much more gentle on your Chinese Evergreen. To make a simple DIY neem oil and soap recipe, mix 1 teaspoon of neem oil with 1/2 teaspoon of insecticidal soap and 1 litre of water and apply with a spray bottle. When applying the DIY pesticide, ensure all parts of the plant are covered in the pest spray. You can re-apply this solution every few days without hurting your plants until there's no more signs of pests.
Natural Pesticide: If you prefer an easier premixed shop-bought solution, you can buy concentrated neem and soap treatments like SB Plant Invigorator. Make sure you follow the directions on the back of the bottle. This natural pesticide is a concentrated mix of soap and neem oil with added nutrients. You cannot reapply these sprays every few days as the nutrients could burn the plant leaves.
Chemical Pesticide: For a more hardline approach, we recommend a systemic pesticide to give you a 4-week window through all stages of the pest's life cycle without repeated treatments. The one systemic pesticide available in the UK currently is Acetamiprid concentrate. This is known to cause some distortion in new growth immediately after application. To fix Acetamiprid distorted new growth, simply cut the distorted bits off back to the last healthy point. Your plant should grow back with normal leaves after some time — this is a normal side effect of this pesticide.
Common Problems: Diagnosing and Fixing Plant Woes
Yellow Leaves: If your Aglaonema has yellow leaves, it could be over watering. If the soil is soggy when you go to water, let it dry out for longer and reduce watering frequency. Consider investing in a plant moisture tester to take the guessing out of your watering schedule. Always check pots to ensure that they have good drainage and that your Aglaonema soil recipe is chunky and airy.
Brown Leaf Tips: Low humidity or under watering can cause browning leaf tips. Monitor your humidity levels, and increase localised humidity as needed. We don't recommend regularly misting plants as it can lead to fungal issues. However, if you wish to mist, do so with caution, only spraying the leaves at night to allow them enough time to dry before light hits the leaves. This prevents fungal and bacterial issues developing on your leaves due to the excess moisture.
Leggy Growth: If your Aglaonema plant looks more vine than leaves, it might need more light, or if it looks more cane than leaves, it may need a hard prune to encourage it to bush out. Most plants start to look leggy when they're not getting their needs met — it's one of the first signs of lighting issues. Try moving your plant to a brighter spot or adding supplemental LED lighting.
Root Rot: If the roots are black and mushy, your plant might be suffering from root rot due to overwatering. Cut off the affected roots and repot the plant in fresh soil.
Loosing Leaves: If your houseplant is loosing leaves, it could be nothing to worry about and simply a part of the ageing process. As plants make new leaves, they naturally shed the lower leaves that don't get as much light. It doesn't make sense economically for the plant to put all of that energy into a leaf that can't photosynthesise as well as newer ones. Plants love efficiency. The dead leaves go yellow as the plant pulls all the nutrients out of it to recycle for newer leaves. It can be beneficial to leave the dying leaves on the plant until they have gone fully yellow to allow maximum nutrient recycling. If your plant is throwing off more than one or two leaves at a time, then you may need to have a look at your plant care or your plant's environment. One of the biggest causes of premature yellowing of leaves is overwatering or soil that's too dense and stays too wet. It could also be a nutrient deficiency causing the plant to pull the nutrients that it needs from older leaves, causing them to die off. If you don't have a feeding schedule for your plants, it may be worth adding a good quality fertilizer to your plant care routine.
Aglaonema plants are very easy to care for, but unfortunately, they do suffer from a few common pest issues, like most houseplants. As plant keepers, we do have to face unwanted guests, pesky pests and common houseplant issues. Sometimes, they come in from outdoors, or on new plants, and they can infect our entire houseplant collections. The trick to surviving these invasions is enabling your Aglaonema plants to live to tell the tale. Here's how to tackle a full scale home invasion:.
Common Pest Species:
Spider Mites: These pesky pests can spin webs at the bottom of a plant's stems and leaves. Mites suck the life out of a plant until it dies, so this isn't the sort of pest that you can ignore. Spider Mites have a 2-4 week life cycle and can often be found by spotting fine spider webs in the lower parts of your plants. It may look like a spider has moved into your plant pot, however, it's usually not a spider, but you'll wish it was!
Aphids: These invaders are typically brought in from our gardens or through our windows and can be tricky to get rid of once established due to the 30-day life cycle. Eggs are laid within the plant's structure to hide them and are typically impossible to see. Always continue treatment for several full adult life cycles. Consider using a systemic pesticide to provide a 4-week window of treatment.
Mealy Bugs: Unfortunately these are one of the worst pests to find on your Aglaonema. These fluffy white bugs hide in leaf joints and look like large lice with very visible legs and antennae, and visible hairs. Mealy Bugs are tiny, with adults looking like young woodlouse and babies being so small you can barely see them with the naked eye. Their eggs look like cottony white dots left under leaves or in the crooks of stems, or even in the soil. It can be helpful to change your Aglaonemas substrate if you have a bad mealy bug infestation. The life cycle is 4–7 weeks from egg to adult, so you must be vigilant for eggs hatching out and you must keep reapplying treatments or spot dabbing them with alcohol, as we will discuss later on in this pest guide. Consider using a systemic treatment to give you a 4-week window with your pest treatment. If you can't re-apply a systemic yet, resort to other methods listed below until you can re-apply it.
Scale Insects: These hard-shelled pests can be hard to manage. Scrape them off the Aglaonema gently with a soft brush and spray the plant down with our DIY pesticide recipe.
Mealy Bug cottony residue, and a visible nymph on an Aglaonema Maria leaf
Close up of a Red Spider Mite
Aglaonema 'Red Star'
Aglaonema 'Red Star'
25 Colourful Aglaonema Varieties
Aglaonema 'Aqua Green/Ghost'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Aqua Green/Ghost'
Colour: Slender foliage with mid-green variegation of mint, silver, and yellow.
Unique Features: The slender, variegated foliage with mint, silver, and yellow hues adds a refreshing touch to any space
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Lipstick'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Lipstick'
Colour: Red and green leaves
Unique Features: The beautiful red and green leaves of this variety create a striking appearance.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Lemon & Lime'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Lemon & Lime'
Colour: Lime green leaves with mint-coloured variegation and a glowing lemon midrib
Unique Features: The vibrant lime green leaves with mint-coloured variegation make this variety a glowing addition to any indoor garden.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Greyhound'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Greyhound'
Colour: Slender foliage with mid-green variegation of jade and silver
Unique Features: The elegant jade and silver variegation on slender foliage makes this variety unique and attractive.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'White Lance'
Aglaonema commutatum 'White Lance'
Colour: Broad leaves with white variegation and green veins
Unique Features: The striking white variegation and green veins on broad leaves make this variety a standout in any indoor space.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Maria'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Maria'
Colour: Dark green leaves with white veins
Unique Features: The dark green leaves with white veins offer a sophisticated and classic look.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Stripes'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Stripes'
Colour: Green leaves with white stripes
Unique Features: The unique striped foliage combining shades of green and white makes this variety a distinctive addition to any collection.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'B J Freeman'
Aglaonema commutatum 'B J Freeman'
Colour: Dark green leaves with white veins
Unique Features: The classic look of dark green leaves with white veins makes this variety a timeless choice.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Silver Bay'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Bay'
Colour: Silver-green leaves with white veins
Unique Features: The stunning silver-green leaves with white veins create a striking visual effect.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Silver Blue'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Blue'
Colour: Silver-blue foliage with green accents
Unique Features: The striking silver-blue foliage with green accents makes this variety a standout plant.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Sparkling Sarah'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Sparkling Sarah'
Colour: Bright green leaves with splashes of bubblegum pink
Unique Features: The vibrant pink splashes on the leaves make this variety eye-catching and unique. Perfect for adding a pop of colour to any indoor space.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Georgi's Ruby'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Georgi's Ruby'
Colour: Cherry-red veins and vibrant arches of chartreuse against deep green foliage
Unique Features: The striking red veins and chartreuse arches create a bold statement, making it a standout in any plant collection.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Silver Stone'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Stone'
Colour: Subtle silvery markings and pale, silvery stems
Unique Features: The delicate silvery markings and stems add a touch of elegance, making it a perfect addition to modern interiors.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Pink Dalmatian'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Pink Dalmatian'
Colour: Large leaves delicately dappled with slightly translucent pink spots
Unique Features: The pink spots on the leaves add a whimsical touch, making it an attractive and unique houseplant.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Snow White'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Snow White'
Colour: Leaves heavily variegated with a snowy-almost-white shade of light green
Unique Features: The heavy variegation in a snowy-white shade makes this variety particularly striking and elegant.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Red Sumatra'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Red Sumatra'
Colour: Deep green foliage artfully veined in fire-engine red and flecked with yellow specks
Unique Features: The dramatic red veins and yellow specks create a vivid and attractive appearance, perfect for adding a bold touch to any room.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Rotundum Tiger'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Rotundum Tiger'
Colour: Green leaves with tiger-like stripes
Unique Features: The striking tiger-like leaf patterns make this variety a unique and eye-catching addition to any plant collection.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Red Valentine'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Red Valentine'
Colour: Bright green, red, and pink leaves
Unique Features: The colourful foliage with shades of red, pink, and green makes this variety a showstopper in any indoor space.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Golden Madonna'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Golden Madonna'
Colour: Golden-yellow leaves with green edges
Unique Features: The golden-yellow leaves with green edges add a touch of elegance and brightness to any room.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Pictum Tricolor'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Pictum Tricolor'
Colour: Green leaves with white and pink variegation
Unique Features: The unique tricolor variegation makes this variety a stunning and rare addition to any plant collection.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Green Papaya'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Green Papaya'
Colour: Green leaves with white and pink variegation
Unique Features: The colorful variegation adds a vibrant touch to any indoor space, making it a popular choice among plant enthusiasts.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Simplex Variegated'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Simplex Variegated'
Colour: Green leaves with white and pink variegation
Unique Features: The elegant variegation with white and pink shades adds a sophisticated touch to any indoor garden.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Lotus Delight'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Lotus Delight'
Colour: Green leaves with white and pink variegation
Unique Features: The stunning variegation with white and pink hues makes this variety a delightful addition to any plant collection.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Suksom Jaipong'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Suksom Jaipong'
Colour: Green leaves with white and pink variegation
Unique Features: The vibrant variegation and unique leaf pattern make this variety a standout in any indoor space.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.Aglaonema 'Red Valentine'
Aglaonema commutatum 'Red Valentine'
Colour: Bright green, red, and pink leaves
Unique Features: The vibrant red and pink variegation on bright green leaves makes this variety a showstopper in any indoor space.
Origin: Hybrid, no native range.
Aglaonema 'Dark Pink'
Aglaonema 'Lotus Delight'
10 Fun Facts About Aglaonema Plants
Cultural Heritage: In Chinese culture, Aglaonemas are considered a symbol of good luck and fortune. They are often given as gifts during festive occasions such as Chinese New Year. In China, Aglaonema are regularly referred to as Chinese Evergreens.
Colour Changing Ability: Aglaonema plants can exhibit changes in leaf colour intensity throughout the year, depending on the environmental conditions. This phenomenon, known as “dynamic variegation,” can result in more vibrant colours during certain seasons or under specific light conditions, making them an ever-changing and visually appealing addition to your indoor garden. If your Aglaonema has lost its vibrant colours or variegation, check our Aglaonema lighting guide to find out how to fix it.
Leaf Surface Antimicrobial Properties: Aglaonema plants have been found to possess antimicrobial properties on their leaf surfaces. Some studies have shown that the leaves can inhibit the growth of certain bacteria and fungi, contributing to a cleaner environment around them. This natural defence mechanism helps the plant stay healthy in its native tropical habitat.
Ethnobotanical Use: In their native regions, some Aglaonema species are used in traditional medicine for their potential antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Mythology and Folklore: In parts of Southeast Asia, Aglaonema plants are believed to have mystical properties. According to local folklore, these plants can bring good fortune, health, and prosperity to households. It is not uncommon to find Aglaonemas in homes and places of business, where they are placed in auspicious locations to harness their positive energy.
Historical Naming: The name “Aglaonema” comes from the Greek words 'aglaos' meaning bright and 'nema' meaning thread, referring to the striking, colourful foliage and veining of the plants.
Long-Lasting Foliage: Aglaonemas are renowned for their long-lasting foliage. Individual leaves can remain on the plant for several years before they start to age and yellow with the right conditions and care.
A Favourite of NASA: Aglaonemas were included in NASA's Clean Air Study, showcasing their ability to filter indoor air pollutants, although this wasn't mentioned earlier.
Not True Canes: Despite the common name “dumb cane” often being used in reference to Aglaonema plants, it's actually the name used for a relative called Dieffenbachia. Aglaonemas do not actually cause speechlessness. This name is more directly associated with the Dieffenbachia plant, which has a similar toxicity mechanism.
Botanical Oddity: Some species of Aglaonema can produce numerous seeds from their berries, even in indoor conditions. These seeds can be used to propagate new plants, making them a delight for plant enthusiasts.
Aglaonema 'Prosperity'
Aglaonema 'Crete'
Overview Of Aglaonema Plants
Aglaonemas stand out in the world of houseplants for their extraordinary beauty and unique characteristics. Their stunning variety of colours and patterns make them a favourite among plant enthusiasts and interior decorators alike. Aglaonemas can often be found lining the walls of designer shops or offices to bring that jungle vibe inside. From lush greens and silvers to striking reds, pinks, and even almost completely white varieties, Aglaonemas offer an impressive array of foliage designs that can complement any interior decor or colour scheme.
One of the standout features of Aglaonemas is their remarkable ability to thrive in low-light conditions. This makes them an excellent choice for adding greenery to spaces that might not receive much natural sunlight, such as offices, bedrooms, or rooms with shaded windows.
The broad, vibrant leaves of Aglaonemas not only add a touch of the tropics to your home but also create a soothing and inviting atmosphere. Whether you prefer the subtle elegance of green and silver variegations or the bold statement of red and pink hues, there's an Aglaonema variety to suit every taste.
Edited & Fact Checked By: The Houseplant Shop
Article Published: 19th November 2024
About The Houseplant Shop:
Independent Houseplant Nursery
Horticultural Specialists
Managing Over 250 Houseplant Species Onsite
Over 15 Years Of Experience With Horticulture
As head of horticulture, Sarah manages the care and propagation of over 250 plant species at a commercial houseplant nursery. With over 15 years of experience in horticulture, specializing in houseplants, Sarah has extensive expertise in plant biology, soil science, and integrated pest management. She continually reviews and integrates the latest research into her plant care guides. Dedicated to educating others, Sarah has spent years diagnosing houseplant care issues and sharing her real-world experience. Her commitment to scientific accuracy and helping people diagnose plant health issues has established her as a trusted authority and expert in the field.
The Houseplant Shop is a dedicated houseplant nursery, growing all of their own stock from their botanical library of over 250 houseplant species. The nursery staff are horticultural experts who have dedicated their lives to cultivating and nurturing over 250 different species of houseplants, focusing on Aroids, tropical plants, and NOID collectables. All their plants are grown in house in Britain to be more environmentally friendly. The nursery is proud to have been featured by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) as a 100% peat free nursery.
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Written By: Sarah Brooks, Head of Horticulture
Article Received: 14th November 2024
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List of Article Updates:
20th December 2024: Minor UI updates
Author Bio:
Author: Sarah Brooks,
Head of Horticulture at The Houseplant Shop