The Ultimate Guide: How To Get Fenestrated Leaves
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HOW TO GET FENESTRATED LEAVES
Why Do Plants Get Fenestrated Leaves?
Have you ever wondered why some houseplants develop fenestrations? Have you ever asked yourself why Monstera plants have holes in their leaves? The simple answer is that some species develop fenestrated leaves as an adaptation to their natural growing environments. This can explain why it's challenging to get plants to produce fenestrated leaves at home. Leaf maturation is rooted in a plant's evolutionary history, and when provided with the right care, they naturally mature to their final form. However, many people struggle to create the ideal environment within their homes to encourage their houseplants to develop fenestrated leaves. To understand why, we need to delve into the reasons plants have evolved to produce these iconic splits and holes. Let's explore:
Why Did Plants Evolve With Fenestrations In The Wild?
Plants develop fenestrations, or natural splits and holes in their leaves, as an adaptation to their environment. These iconic features are often a response to harsh conditions in their natural habitats. For example, plants like Monstera, which are native to tropical rainforests, evolve fenestrations to allow sunlight to filter through the dense forest canopy and reach lower leaves. This ensures that even the shaded parts of the plant can photosynthesize effectively.
Similarly, fenestrations help reduce wind resistance in these environments. In areas where strong winds are common, the gaps in the leaves allow wind to pass through more easily, reducing the likelihood of tearing and physical damage. Additionally, these splits help in water shedding by allowing rainwater to drain off quickly, preventing fungal infections due to excessive moisture.
When you replicate these environmental conditions in your home, you can encourage your plants to develop fenestrations as well. By understanding and replicating the natural environment of your plants, you can encourage them to exhibit adaptations like fenestrations that they would grow naturally in the wild.
Mature fully fenestrated Monstera deliciosa with splits, holes, and perforations in the leaves
What's The Difference Between Leaf Splits & Holes?
Fenestrated leaves are made up of splits, and holes. You may sometimes see holes referred to as perforations — when you see them described like this, they're referring to the same thing as holes. Some plants, Like Monstera deliciosa, get both splits and holes, but some, like Monstera adansonii, only develop holes. To see which plants get fenestrated leaves, check our list of all the different leaf features of houseplants. To check how tall, or how old they are before they develop fenestrations, check our comprehensive list of maturity rates.
Semi-mature Monstera Albo Variegata, with grown splits
Mature form of Monstera adansonii, with natural holes in the leaves
Fully fenestrated mature form of Monstera deliciosa with splits & holes
Bird of Paradise plant that has split leaves due to damage
Diagram of the difference between leaf splits and holes on a fully fenestrated leaf from a mature Monstera deliciosa plant
Splits are different to holes; splits are when the hole has a broken edge, creating a flap of leaf. Holes are where the plant has created a perforated hole within the leaf, with completely closed edges. Sometimes, splits develop after the leaf has grown to allow flexibility in the wind, like seen in the Bird of Paradise plant. Here are some photos to explain the difference between leaf splits and holes in plants:
What Are Holes Or Perforations In Leaves?
Fenestrations are the natural holes or perforations in plant leaves, particularly notable in plants like the Monstera deliciosa. Fenestrated leaves are a natural adaptation that helps plants to maximize light exposure and airflow. Apart from being so captivating and utterly iconic, these natural adaptations serve several practical purposes for the plants in their wild habitat:
Light Penetration: In dense tropical forests, light can be scarce. Fenestrations allow light to filter through the leaves, reaching lower parts of the plant and other plants beneath them. This maximizes the photosynthetic efficiency of the plant.
Wind Resistance: The holes reduce the surface area of the leaves, which means less wind resistance. This helps the plant to withstand strong winds without getting damaged. This is particularly useful for plants that climb extremely high and are exposed to stronger winds, like Monstera, which can reach dizzying heights of up to 20 meters in the wild.
Water Shedding: In their natural habitat, these plants often face heavy rains. Fenestrations help in efficiently channelling water off the leaves, preventing damage from water accumulation, which can risk fungal infections when leaves stay wet for too long.
Natural Growth: In some plants, like Epipremnum pinnatum or Monstera deliciosa Albo Variegata, holes form naturally as the leaves develop and mature. These can serve similar functions to fenestrations and splits by helping with light penetration, wind resistance, and water shedding. This is typically the final stage of mature leaves, and a sign that a plant has reached its final leaf form. This is frequently celebrated by plant keepers on social media as a milestone of the last stage of plant leaf maturity.
Defence Mechanism: In certain plants, holes can be a form of defence mechanism. For example, the presence of holes can make the plant less appealing to herbivores, or the holes could help in misleading pests by pretending that they've already been attacked by pests. For instance, some species of begonias have naturally occurring holes that might make them less attractive to herbivores.
External Factors: Holes in plant leaves can also be caused by pests, diseases, or physical damage. It’s important to distinguish these from naturally occurring holes to manage the health of the plant effectively. Checking images of mature plant leaves, like those included in this article, can help you identify why your plant has holes in the leaves. You can also check if the species should have fenestrations at all, as not all houseplants produce fenestrated leaves.
To get your plants to grow fenestrated leaves, they need to be in the correct environment to trigger these natural responses. Factors that influence maturity include light, humidity, age, health, height, watering, and fertilizer. The plants must also be in a stable growing environment to achieve fenestrations. That means that you must be able to provide the environmental triggers consistently, to encourage the plants to trigger fenestrations as a protection against their environment.
Mature Monstera deliciosa leaf with holes
Examples Of Monstera Leaf Fenestration Stages With Pictures
If you've never owned a Monstera with fenestrated leaves, it can be hard to know what we're referring to in this article when we talk about splits, holes, and fenestrations. We will dive into the characteristics of mature Monstera leaves later on in this article. For now, let's have a look at the difference between juvenile Monstera leaves, semi mature leaves, and fully fenestrated leaves with splits, and holes, to help you understand what growth stage your plant is currently at:
Non-fenestrated juvenile Monstera deliciosa Albo Variegata leaf
First signs of fenestration with a small leaf split on a Monstera deliciosa
Slightly more mature Monstera deliciosa leaf with two leaf splits
Fully split Monstera Albo Variegata leaf, ready to start producing holes
First stage of final maturation on Monstera leaf with splits and holes
Final form of Monstera leaf maturity, with fenestrations, splits, and holes.
What Are Split Leaves?
Split leaves can be one of two things, either a natural part of fenestration, like seen in Monstera plants, or it can be due to natural damage. Natural “damaged” split leaves are adaptations where the leaves literally break apart due to their fragile structure. This is commonly seen in plants like Musa spp. Banana, or the Bird of Paradise plant.
Wind Resistance: The splits help reduce wind resistance, making the leaves less likely to tear in strong winds. This adaptation is crucial for plants in windy environments, helping them withstand and survive harsh conditions.
Water Shedding: Split leaves channel water off the leaf surface more efficiently, reducing the risk of fungal infections caused by excessive moisture. This helps keep the plant healthy by preventing water from sitting on the leaves for too long.
Light Penetration: Both damaged splits and naturally grown splits allow sunlight to penetrate through the leaf to reach lower parts of the plant. This ensures that even the bottom leaves get enough light, which helps maximize photosynthesis throughout the plant.
Increased Surface Area: The natural splits increase the overall surface area of the leaves without significantly increasing their weight. This enhances the plant’s ability to photosynthesize and grow, while the damaged splits help the plant manage environmental stresses.
Bird of Paradise leaves with natural splits
What Are Lobed Leaves?
Lobed Leaves are slightly different to fenestrated leaves, splits, or holes. Lobes are characterized by distinct protrusions or “lobes” along the edge of the leaf, commonly seen in plants like oak trees and some species of Philodendrons:
Light Penetration: Similar to fenestrations, the spaces between lobes allow light to reach lower parts of the plant, and will have evolved to help lower leaves get light.
Wind Resistance: The lobes can reduce wind resistance, preventing damage in windy conditions, similar to fenestrations, splits, and holes.
Water Shedding: Lobed leaves help channel water off the leaf surface efficiently, reducing fungal infections on leaves due to excessive moisture.
Increased Surface Area: Lobes increase the leaf’s surface area, enhancing photosynthesis without significantly increasing leaf mass.
Achieving lobes in your leaves is very similar to growing plants with splits, and holes. It's all about providing the right plant care to encourage your plant to mature. When environmental factors are what cause leaves to become lobed, you have to replicate those conditions in your home to encourage plants to mature.
Philodendron bipinnatifidum lobed leaf
What's The Difference Between Lobes & Splits
Lobed leaves and split leaves do look very similar, but they have distinctly different characteristics. Although it can be hard to tell without experience, there are a few featured which set these leaf features apart. We've included an illustration to show the physical differences between a Monstera deliciosa and a Tree Philodendron. Let's dive in to what differences there are between split and lobed leaves:
Lobed Leaves:
Definition: Lobed leaves have distinct protrusions or extensions that are usually rounded or oval and are separated by indentations, but the leaf blade remains mostly intact.
Appearance: The lobes create a scalloped or wavy edge, giving the leaf an intricate, segmented look. The edges are typically scalloped or wavy, like shown in the picture. Lobes are typically less deeply indented compared to the splits, which can sometimes reach nearly to the base of the leaf.
Example: The leaves of the oak tree (Quercus) and the Philodendron bipinnatifidum (pictured) are classic examples of lobed leaves.
Photo illustrating the differences between lobed and split leaves
Split Leaves:
Definition: Split leaves, also known as fenestrated leaves, have natural splits or holes that extend into the leaf blade, often creating dramatic, lace-like patterns.
Appearance: The splits in these leaves can be quite deep, sometimes reaching almost to the base of the leaf. This creates an open, airy structure. The edges of the splits are usually more irregular and can vary significantly from leaf to leaf.
Example: The Monstera deliciosa is a prime example of a plant with split leaves, where the splits create a distinctive and highly ornamental appearance.
How Long Until Plants Develop Fenestrated Leaves
There is no simple answer to this, so over this article we will deep dive into this subject in more depth. For now, let's answer in a simple way. The length of time that it takes to get fenestrated leaves is dependent on environment, and the plant species you're trying to grow. Fenestrations don't appear until the plant has the right environmental conditions, and the plant has matured enough to produce them. Young plants can't produce mature leaves, in the same way that mature plants can produce juvenile leaves — except for when they revert!
Fenestrations are a natural evolutionary feature designed to help regulate sunlight absorption and to help control temperature. Without the challenging conditions of the wild that caused them to evolve with these features, plants may never produce fenestrated leaves. Even when given the perfect environment, some plants take longer than others to mature. For an in depth look into how long it takes different species to develop fenestrations, check out our list of plant maturation times by species.
Monstera deliciosa in its wild habitat, climbing a tree trunk
What Do Mature Monstera Leaves Look Like?
If you've never seen a mature Monstera deliciosa leaf, it can be hard to imagine what it would look like with splits and holes. We've included an example of a very mature Monstera that has evolved to its final leaf form. If you give your Monstera plant consistent care, the photo we've included of a mature leaf is what you can expect your Monstera to look like once it has matured. The difference between a mature fenestrated Monstera leaf and a juvenile one is quite striking. Here are the key differences:
Juvenile Monstera Leaf Appearance:
Size: Juvenile leaves are smaller, typically ranging from 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) in length.
Shape: They are generally more heart-shaped and have smooth, unbroken edges.
Texture: The texture of juvenile leaves is thinner and more delicate compared to mature leaves.
Fenestrations: Juvenile leaves usually do not have any fenestrations. They are solid, with no holes or splits.
Colour: They tend to be a lighter, bright green as they are newer and haven't fully matured.
Mature Fenestrated Monstera Leaf Appearance:
Size: Mature leaves are much larger, often reaching up to 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) in length.
Shape: They retain the heart shape, but are more elongated and broader.
Texture: The texture is thicker and leathery, providing more durability.
Fenestrations: Mature leaves develop distinct fenestrations, which include both holes and splits. The splits extend from the edges toward the midrib, and holes appear within the leaf blade, giving it a lacy or "Swiss cheese" appearance.
Colour: Mature leaves are a darker, richer green, indicating their full development.
Juvenile Monstera leaves
Semi-mature Monstera leaves
Mature fenestrated Monstera leaves
Fully matured leaves with extra holes
Visual Description Of Juvenile & Mature Monstera Leaves:
Juvenile Leaf: Small, smooth-edged, heart-shaped with a lighter green colour and no fenestrations.
Mature Leaf: Large, split, and perforated with a darker green colour and a thicker, leathery texture.
See the example photographs that we've included which illustrate the differences in the appearance of juvenile, semi mature, and fully mature Monstera leaves. This shows you the difference in how the leaves appear throughout different stages of maturity through the growth phases. Semi mature Monstera leaves begin to develop splits, where fully mature Monstera deliciosa leaves have splits, and more than one layer of holes. Monstera will start by developing a layer of holes along the centre of the leaf, then as they mature further, they develop a second smaller row of holes.
Fully matured Monstera deliciosa leaves with the extra rows of holes, and perforations
What do Mature Philodendron Leaves Look Like?
If you've never seen a mature lobed leaf before, it can be hard to imagine what it may look like. We've included a photograph to illustrate the appearance of a mature lobed leaf, but for now, let's dive into the characteristics of mature lobed Philodendron leaves:
Size: Mature lobed leaves can be quite large, often reaching up to 3 feet (about 90 cm) in length and sometimes even larger, depending on the species.
Shape: These leaves are characterized by their deeply lobed edges, creating multiple sections or “lobes” that extend from the central vein towards the outer edges. Each lobe can have a wavy or scalloped margin.
Texture: The texture of mature lobed leaves is generally thick and leathery, providing durability. They typically have a glossy finish that reflects light beautifully.
Veins: The veins in mature lobed leaves are prominent and well-defined, giving the leaf a textured appearance. The primary vein runs down the centre, with secondary veins branching out towards the lobes.
Colour: The leaves are typically a rich, dark green, though the exact shade can vary depending on the species and growing conditions.
Visual Description Of Mature Philodendron Leaves:
Mature philodendron leaves look like large, deeply lobed leaves with a rich colour and a glossy, leathery texture. They can get impressively large, soon taking over houseplant collections with their 3ft leaves.
Example of mature lobed leaves on a tree Philodendron
How To Get Fenestrated Leaves
Fenestrated leaves are when the plant develops holes, splits, or lobes in their leaves. This iconic plant characteristic is very desirable to plant keepers, as it usually indicates plant maturity and that the plant has been kept in the right environment. Achieving fenestrated leaves requires specific plant care conditions to encourage the plant to activate those natural defence mechanisms we discussed earlier in this article. Let's dive into how to get your plant to grow fenestrated leaves, step by step:
Lighting:
Bright, Indirect Light: Plants get fenestrated as a response to their environment, maturing and sizing up their leaves. To get our houseplants to fenestrate, we need to mimic the conditions in the wild that cause these leaf features. Most plants that develop fenestrated leaves prefer bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can cause leaf burn, while low lighting can hinder growth and prevent fenestration. The exception to this is the Monstera Deliciosa, which can be encouraged to fenestrate faster with some early morning or late afternoon sun. If your plant is in your brightest available spot, and you think the levels are too low, consider adding grow lights or high-powered LED bulbs to supplement the light and encourage fenestration.
Consistent Light Exposure: Ensure your plant receives consistent light throughout the day. Rotate the plant periodically to promote even growth and prevent it from leaning towards the light source.
Juvenile Epipremnum with no fenestrations or holes
Juvenile Epipremnum leaves beginning to develop holes
Semi-mature Epipremnum Pinnatum leaves with holes
Fully mature split Epipremnum Pinnatum leaves
Visual Description Of Mature Epipremnum Leaves
It's important to note that not all mature Epipremnum leaves resemble the distinctive fenestrations of Epipremnum pinnatum like we've shown in the photographs in this section. Each species within the Epipremnum genus can exhibit unique characteristics as they mature. For instance, Epipremnum aureum, commonly known as Golden Pothos, often develops different leaf features when it reaches maturity. Unlike pinnatum's pronounced perforations along the centre of the leaf, mature aureum leaves tend to retain a more heart-shaped form with occasional splits, rather than extensive holes and splits. Epipremnum aureum's mature leaves may also showcase a range of variegations, including streaks or patches of yellow, cream, or white, which add a vibrant pop of colour to their foliage.
While both pinnatum and aureum share the climbing and vining nature typical of Epipremnums, their leaf maturation processes highlight the fascinating diversity within this popular houseplant genus.
Do you have a mature aureum? Send in your photos to be featured!
Watering:
Keep Soil Moist, Not Soggy: Although you may not think watering plays any part in fenestration, a plant without hydration may not produce fenestrated leaves. At the same time, a plant that is too wet may not waste energy producing fenestrations, as it needs the energy to fight off bad bacteria in the root system. Allow the top inch of the plant's soil to dry out between watering. Overwatering can lead to root rot, while underwatering can stress the plant.
Drainage is Key: Ensure your pot has adequate drainage to prevent water from pooling at the bottom. You can drill extra drainage holes in your pot; we use a size 4-6 wood drill bit for this.
Humidity Levels:
High Humidity: This is another care requirement that often gets overlooked, as it can seem insignificant to achieving fenestrated leaves. However, many fenestrated plants thrive in very high humidity environments. To encourage your plant to mature, aim for humidity levels between 60-80%, and monitor to ensure consistency.
Use Humidifiers or Pebble Trays: If your home is dry, consider using a humidifier or placing your plant on a tray filled with water and pebbles to increase humidity. We like to place bowls or trays of water near the plants.
Nutrients:
Well-Draining Soil Mix: Hungry plants don't waste precious energy resources on fenestrated leaves, so ensure you use a nutrient-rich soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. We highly recommend using our Aroid soil mix recipe, as we have had great success maturing our fenestrated plants using this mix.
Regular Fertilization: Feed your plant with a balanced water-soluble plant fertilizer every 4–6 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Use soil amendments and biofertilizers to encourage mature growth.
Pruning and Training:
Regular Pruning: Remove dead or yellowing leaves to encourage new growth and maintain the plant's health. One of the easiest ways to encourage new growth on climbing plants is to prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves. This encourages the plant to activate growth points higher up the stem to produce new leaves.
Support Structures: You can use stakes or a trellis to support most climbing houseplants; however, you will achieve better results using a moss pole. Support structures help the plants grow upright while promoting fenestration as it mimics their natural growing conditions. Our professional opinion would be to use a moss pole, as we can get our nursery plants to fenestrate very quickly using these, but it can take a very long time using a metal pole or cane. We have had great experiences using self watering moss poles, which can encourage plants to fenestrate even faster by providing consistent moisture to aerial roots, which promotes mature leaf growth.
Topping the Plant: If your plant has reached the top of its climbing structure without achieving fenestrations, cut the top of the plant off, propagate it, and start again. By chopping and propping, you can dispose of the non-fenestrated leaves and give your plant another chance to mature as it climbs. You can read more about topping the plant if you have a fully grown plant with no fenestrations, or partial fenestrations. It can take 1–2 chops from a fully grown moss pole before some plants produce fenestrated leaves. This is quite common with Epipremnum Baltic Blue and Cebu Blue plants, which can be quite tricky to get to mature.
How To Get Fenestrated Leaves
Fenestrated leaves are when the plant develops holes, splits, or lobes in their leaves. This iconic plant characteristic is very desirable to plant keepers, as it usually indicates plant maturity and that the plant has been kept in the right environment. Achieving fenestrated leaves requires specific plant care conditions to encourage the plant to activate those natural defence mechanisms we discussed earlier in this article. Let's dive into how to get your plant to grow fenestrated leaves, step by step:
Lighting:
Bright, Indirect Light: Plants get fenestrated as a response to their environment, maturing and sizing up their leaves. To get our houseplants to fenestrate, we need to mimic the conditions in the wild that cause these leaf features. Most plants that develop fenestrated leaves prefer bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can cause leaf burn, while low lighting can hinder growth and prevent fenestration. The exception to this is the Monstera Deliciosa, which can be encouraged to fenestrate faster with some early morning or late afternoon sun. If your plant is in your brightest available spot, and you think the levels are too low, consider adding grow lights or high-powered LED bulbs to supplement the light and encourage fenestration.
Consistent Light Exposure: Ensure your plant receives consistent light throughout the day. Rotate the plant periodically to promote even growth and prevent it from leaning towards the light source.
What To Do When Leaves Aren't Getting Fenestrations, Splits, or Holes?
Allow Time for Maturity: Sometimes, fenestrated leaves develop naturally as the plant matures, without any input from us. Other times, they require additional help to mature. Ensure you're providing consistent care and give the plant time to grow and develop. Young plants won't produce fenestrated leaves until they reach maturity. Check our list of when each plant species produces fenestrated leaves, as you may be worrying about something that your plant cannot yet achieve.
Monitor and Adjust: Regularly check your plant for signs of stress and adjust your care routine as needed. Pay attention to leaf colour, growth patterns, and overall health. Never be afraid to prune back new growth that hasn't fenestrated, but ensure you change your environment, as fenestrations depend on replicating the same conditions in the wild that encourage the plants to produce fenestrations. If you keep pruning your plant while the environmental conditions remain unchanged, it will keep growing back without fenestrated leaves. To encourage maturity, offer the same sort of environment that caused the plant's ancestors to develop fenestrations in the first place. Remember, fenestrations are a natural defence against harsh growing conditions.
Mature fully fenestrated Monstera deliciosa in the wild
Monstera deliciosa with new fenestrated growth
What To Do When Leaves Aren't Getting Fenestrations, Splits, or Holes?
Allow Time for Maturity: Sometimes, fenestrated leaves develop naturally as the plant matures, without any input from us. Other times, they require additional help to mature. Ensure you're providing consistent care and give the plant time to grow and develop. Young plants won't produce fenestrated leaves until they reach maturity. Check our list of when each plant species produces fenestrated leaves, as you may be worrying about something that your plant cannot yet achieve.
Monitor and Adjust: Regularly check your plant for signs of stress and adjust your care routine as needed. Pay attention to leaf colour, growth patterns, and overall health. Never be afraid to prune back new growth that hasn't fenestrated, but ensure you change your environment, as fenestrations depend on replicating the same conditions in the wild that encourage the plants to produce fenestrations. If you keep pruning your plant while the environmental conditions remain unchanged, it will keep growing back without fenestrated leaves. To encourage maturity, offer the same sort of environment that caused the plant's ancestors to develop fenestrations in the first place. Remember, fenestrations are a natural defence against harsh growing conditions.
People's Real World Experiences Getting Fenestrated Leaves:
Reddit Insights: Many plant enthusiasts on Reddit share their experiences with fenestration. Common themes include the importance of patience, consistent care, and providing the right environmental conditions. Users often mention that it can take years for a plant to start producing fenestrated leaves, and that light and humidity are crucial factors.
Forum Discussions: Similar discussions on forums highlight the need for stable conditions and proper pruning techniques. Experienced growers suggest using moss poles for climbing plants and regularly trimming older leaves to encourage new growth.
Our Personal Experience: We grow and sell many climbing fenestrated plants, and in our opinion, it's always best to use a moss pole, preferably a self-watering one made of sphagnum moss. We recommend feeding the aerial roots by filling your self-watering moss pole with fertilized, dechlorinated, room-temperature water, as this provides nutrients at the active growth points without shocking the roots from cold or chlorine. We recommend heavy pruning of any non-fenestrated leaves to encourage new growth and topping and propagating the plant to start again when it has reached the top of the pole. At our shop, we ensure high humidity and bright lighting, with consistent care. We find that with the right growing conditions, we can get our moss pole plants to fenestrate slightly earlier than expected, which cements the belief that the trick is in the environment you keep your plant in. We believe that the key to achieving fenestrated leaves is successfully replicating the wild environment. When you replicate the harsh growing conditions of the plant's natural habitat, they fenestrate as a response to environmental stress, and this is the key to achieving fenestrated leaves in an indoor environment.
Young Monstera deliciosa plant with no fenestrations
Semi-mature Monstera deliciosa leaf with splits, but no holes
How To Encourage Plants To Fenestrate When Nothing Else Has Worked
If you’ve tried everything else and your plants still aren’t developing those beautiful fenestrated leaves, don’t despair. Some plants can be picky about what they want before they'll mature, and some won't fenestrate until certain ages or heights. If you've tried everything, and your plants are the right age and height, here are some additional steps and tips that might just encourage your plant to grow fenestrated leaves:
Reevaluate Light Conditions: Even if you’ve ensured your plant is getting enough light, consider the intensity and duration. Sometimes, shifting to a brighter spot or adjusting the length of light exposure can make a difference. Try supplementing with artificial lighting if natural light is insufficient.
Humidity: Tropical plants require humidity to mature, to replicate their wild environment. Use a humidity tray or a humidifier, or cluster plants together. Monitor to ensure a minimum of 60% humidity.
Feed Consistently: Regular feeding with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer can provide the essential nutrients needed for growth. Ensure your plant is getting the right mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as macronutrients and micronutrients.
Prune Strategically: Trim older or damaged leaves to encourage new growth. Proper pruning can stimulate the plant and promote healthier, more vigorous growth.
Repotting: Sometimes, the plant’s roots are too cramped, hindering growth. Repot your plant into a slightly larger container with fresh, well-draining soil to give the roots more space.
Environmental Stress: Mimic the plant’s natural habitat by recreating conditions of mild stress. This can include slight variations in temperature or water to encourage the plant to adapt by developing fenestrations.
Growth Hormones: A more extreme solution to a lack of fenestration would be to use a dilute solution of plant growth hormones, such as gibberellic acid. However, this should be done with caution and ideally under the guidance of a plant care expert. You can sometimes buy this on eBay, but it's very hard to find in shops. This can encourage inactive nodes to grow.
Patience and Observation: Sometimes, plants just need more time to acclimate to their environment and mature. Continuously monitor your plant’s progress and adjust care routines as needed.
People's Real World Experiences Achieving Fenestration In Stubborn Plants:
To give you a better idea of what has worked for others, we've gathered some experiences from plant enthusiasts on forums and Reddit, and we've added our own personal experience with growing fenestrated plants commercially here at the houseplant nursery:
Increasing Light Exposure: Many users on Reddit have reported success by gradually increasing the amount of light their plants receive. One user mentioned that moving their Monstera closer to a south-facing window helped.
Our Personal Experience With Lighting: The Houseplant Shop has had personal experience with troubleshooting a lack of fenestrations, and we recommend trying a south-facing window for suitable plants. One of our Monstera deliciosa plants refused to fenestrate, no matter what we tried. Eventually, after much trial and error, we figured it out! We moved the plant to a south window and within 3 months of the move, the plant started to fenestrate. It took 3 new leaves before the first signs of fenestration appeared. Next, we chopped the top of the plant off and replanted it with a new moss pole, giving us a fully fenestrated plant! We had lots of issues getting this one plant to fenestrate, but with a change in environment to signal harsher environmental conditions, the plant sent signals to produce more mature leaves to the active growth points. This change in conditions triggered the Monstera to start producing fenestrated leaves from that node onwards, and now, the plant is fully fenestrated, with holes!
Regular Misting: Some have found that misting their plants helps to encourage fenestrations. This mimics the humid environment of the rainforest, which many fenestrated plants are native to. Always do this at night to allow the leaves time to dry, to prevent fungal infections. A DIY self-watering moss pole would provide more consistent moisture.
Humidity Trays: Using humidifiers, humidity trays or placing plants on trays filled with water and pebbles has been a popular method. Monitor and maintain higher humidity levels.
Pruning and Repotting: Several users have shared that pruning older leaves and repotting into larger containers with fresh soil has stimulated new growth and fenestrations.
Topping the Plant: When you only have partial fenestrations, it can help to trigger more mature growth by topping the plant and starting it again at the bottom of the moss pole.
Patience and Consistency: Many experienced plant owners emphasize the importance of patience and consistent care. We also recommend consistency, as we've found that one of the key factors to achieve fenestrations is continuity of care. One user noted that it took several months of consistent care before they saw significant fenestration in their plant.
Final Thoughts On Getting Stubborn Plants To Fenestrate:
Encouraging fenestration can sometimes be a trial-and-error process, and it can be challenging to be patient when your plant isn't growing the way you want it to. Unfortunately, nature can be unpredictable, and sometimes we have to let it take its natural course. By paying close attention to your plant’s needs and making these care adjustments, you can increase your chances of fenestrated leaves unfurling from the next growth point. Keep experimenting and observing, and your patience will likely pay off.
Keep a journal of any changes to the plant's care routine and monitor the results. Use a temperature and humidity sensor to maintain a consistent environment. Check lighting levels with free mobile phone light meter apps. Remember, we're ultimately trying to replicate the challenging environmental conditions that the plants experience in their wild habitat. These challenging growing conditions are what cause the plant to produce fenestrations as a natural defence mechanism. When you understand why plants have fenestrated leaves, it can make more sense how to achieve fenestrations at home, as they are to protect the plant from their harsh growing conditions in the wild.
Monstera deliciosa leaf holes & splits
The Importance Of A Moss Pole For Fenestrations
A moss pole is an invaluable tool for encouraging fenestrations in climbing plants like Monstera, Philodendron, and Epipremnum. It's important to note early on that when we refer to moss poles, we don't mean bamboo canes or metal stakes. Let's have a quick look at how different support systems influence the development of fenestrated leaves:
Moss Poles vs Stakes vs Canes
The time it takes for a Monstera to develop fenestrations can vary depending on the type of support structure used:
Bamboo Cane: Using a bamboo cane can help your Monstera grow vertically, but it might take longer for fenestrations to develop compared to a moss pole. This is because bamboo canes don't retain moisture as effectively as moss poles, which can impact the overall health and growth rate of the plant. It might take several months to a year for fenestrations to appear.
Metal Pole: A metal pole provides sturdy support for your Monstera, but similar to bamboo, it doesn't retain moisture. While it can still promote vertical growth, the lack of humidity might slow down the fenestration process. You might see fenestrations in 6 months to a year with consistent care.
Moss Pole: A moss pole is generally the fastest, and most effective technique for encouraging fenestrations. The moss retains moisture, creating a humid microenvironment that mimics the plant's natural habitat. This can significantly boost the plant's health and growth rate, potentially leading to fenestrations in 3 to 6 months. You may be able to achieve them faster by using a DIY self watering pole.
Keep in mind that factors like light, humidity, and overall care routines also play a crucial role in the development of fenestrations. Ensuring your Monstera receives bright, indirect light and maintaining proper humidity levels will help it thrive and develop those beautiful fenestrated leaves faster.
Mimicking The Plant's Wild Habitat To Encourage Fenestrations
Moss poles mimic the natural environment of these plants, providing a structure for the vines to latch onto. This promotes healthier overall growth and encourages the development of fenestrated leaves. By simulating the conditions these plants would encounter in their native habitats, moss poles play a crucial role in their leaf maturation process.
One of the primary benefits of using a moss pole is that it helps plants grow upright, which is essential for encouraging fenestrations. In the wild, these plants naturally climb trees and other structures, stretching towards the light. A Monstera plant can reach dizzying heights of 20 meters in the wild! This upward growth habit triggers the development of larger leaves and fenestrations to help the plant cope with stacking its leaves above each other, allowing light to penetrate the dense canopy and enabling lower leaves to photosynthesize. When growing climbing plants at home, providing a moss pole replicates this natural climbing process, encouraging the plant to grow vertically and develop the characteristic splits and holes in its leaves. We have written an extensive guide on the different types of moss poles you can purchase, or make for houseplants, and how different materials effect moss poles. We prefer to use sphagnum moss for our poles here at the nursery, as they offer the best moisture retention qualities. Let's dive in:
Moist Aerial Roots Encourage Fenestrations
A significant advantage of moss poles is their ability to retain moisture. When poles are made from materials like sphagnum moss, they can hold water, providing a humid microenvironment around the plant's aerial roots. The added humidity can help encourage fenestrations, as it mimics the plant's natural rainforest habitat, where the air is consistently moist.
Additionally, moss poles aid in root development. As the plant climbs, it produces aerial roots that latch onto the pole. These roots absorb moisture and nutrients directly from the moss, enhancing the plant's overall health and growth. A well-hydrated and nourished plant is more likely to produce fenestrated leaves, as it has the resources needed for such specialized growth. Here at the houseplant nursery, we only use sphagnum moss in our moss poles, as we feel this is the best material for moisture retention.
We highly recommend using a self-watering moss pole that you make yourself at home. We've had great experiences getting our climbing plants to produce fenestrated leaves when given a consistently moist moss pole. These poles allow the aerial roots to absorb more water and nutrients, right at the source where the active growth point is, and the water reservoir prevents the moss from completely drying out like frequently seen with standard moss poles. We've seen great results sizing up plant leaves using self-watering poles, and we highly recommend using them when plants are struggling to produce fenestrated leaves.
How Moss Poles Encourage Fenestrations
Moss poles encourage plants to channel their energy into upward growth and leaf development, rather than spreading themselves out laterally. This focused energy allocation is crucial for the formation of fenestrations. When a plant grows upwards and supports itself on a moss pole, it is more likely to develop mature fenestrated leaves. When a climbing plant is allowed to sprawl around, it puts most of its energy into strengthening stems to ensure that they don't snap under the plant's substantial weight. By directing the growth upwards, you encourage the plant to put that energy into leaf maturation and prevent the plant from falling over with lopsided growth.
Our Experience With Using Moss Poles For Fenestrations
In our experience, moss poles are an essential part of achieving fenestrated leaves on climbing plants. We believe that moss poles help by providing the plant with physical support, enhancing humidity, and encouraging the plant's natural growth habits. When trying to get your plant to grow fenestrated leaves, it's important to replicate the environment that each plant experiences in the wild. By replicating the way plants would naturally climb a structure like a tree trunk, moss poles play a vital role in getting your plant to produce mature fenestrated leaves. A moss pole is a simple addition to your plant care routine that can make a big difference in the growth habits of climbing plants.
When we understand why plants get fenestrated leaves, we can successfully replicate the tough conditions at home that encouraged them to evolve with fenestrated leaves in the wild. By offering harsher growing conditions indoors, we can trigger the development of fenestrated leaves, which are a natural defence mechanism against the plant's outdoor environment. You may be tired of hearing that you need to replicate the natural growing conditions, but that is the true secret to achieving fenestration. Leaves develop splits and holes to protect the plant against the tough environment that it naturally grows in, so to achieve fenestration, we have to create similar conditions to force the plant to adapt and survive.
Fenestrated Monstera illustrating how the leaves have sized up and produced fenestrations as it climbed the moss pole
Why Has My Fenestrated Plant Reverted?
If your previously fenestrated leaves are now coming through without fenestrations (holes and splits), it could be due to several factors affecting your plant's environment or health. Here are some common reasons and tips to address them:
Light Levels: Insufficient light can cause your plant to revert to producing non-fenestrated leaves. Fenestrations often develop in response to bright, indirect light, which helps the plant grow larger, more mature leaves. Solution: Ensure your plant is receiving enough light. Consider moving it closer to a bright window or supplementing with grow lights if natural light is insufficient.
Humidity: Low humidity levels can hinder the development of fenestrations. Tropical plants like Monstera thrive in humid environments. Solution: Increase the humidity around your plant. Use a humidifier, place a humidity tray nearby, or group plants together to create a more humid microenvironment.
Nutrients: A lack of essential nutrients can impact leaf development. Plants need a balanced supply of nutrients to produce healthy, fenestrated leaves. Solution: Ensure your plant is getting regular feedings with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that provides nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients.
Support Structure: Without proper support, plants may not grow in a way that encourages fenestration. In their natural habitat, these plants climb trees, which promotes the development of larger, fenestrated leaves. Solution: Provide a support structure such as a moss pole, which not only supports the plant but also retains moisture and mimics the plant's natural growing conditions.
Environmental Stress: Drastic changes in environment or stress can cause a plant to produce non-fenestrated leaves. Plants might revert to more juvenile growth forms when stressed. Solution: Try to maintain stable growing conditions for your plant. Avoid moving it frequently, and ensure it's not exposed to drafts, sudden temperature changes, or conditions that are harsher than their natural growing environment in the wild.
Plant Maturity: Sometimes, even mature plants may produce non-fenestrated leaves due to natural cycles or periods of slowed growth. Solution: Continue providing consistent care. Over time, as the plant resumes its healthy growth pattern, it should start producing fenestrated leaves again.
Genetics: Some Monstera varieties and individual plants might naturally have fewer fenestrations. Solution: This is less common, but something to consider. If all other conditions are optimal and fenestrations still don't appear, it might be due to the plant's genetic makeup. Check our list of plants that produce fenestrated leaves to make sure that your species is capable of producing leaf splits and holes. If your plant is on that list, check our list of when plants mature enough to produce fenestrated leaves.
Monstera leaf with holes & splits
How To Keep Fenestrated Leaves Healthy
If you're having trouble with your fenestrated leaves browning, yellowing, or going crispy, it may be worth checking your plant's care routine. Keeping fenestrated leaves healthy involves providing the right environment and care to ensure they thrive. Here are some key tips to maintain the health and beauty of your fenestrated leaves:
Bright, Indirect Light: Ensure your plant receives bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, while insufficient light can hinder the development and health of fenestrations. Add grow lights to encourage fenestrated leaves when window light levels are insufficient. Maintain High Humidity: Tropical plants with fenestrated leaves, such as Monstera and Philodendron, thrive in high humidity and stable temperatures. Aim for a humidity level of 60% or higher. Use a humidifier, place a humidity tray nearby, or group plants together to increase humidity levels. Monitor humidity and temperature to provide consistent care. Consistent Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Avoid letting the plant sit in standing water, as this can cause root rot. Regular Fertilization: Feed your plant with a balanced, water-soluble plant food during the growing season (spring and summer). This provides essential nutrients that support healthy growth and fenestration development. Use a Moss Pole: Provide a moss pole support structure to encourage vertical growth. Moss poles help retain moisture and mimic the plant's natural climbing environment, promoting healthier and more fenestrated leaves. Consider switching to a self watering moss pole to provide more consistent moisture to the aerial roots. Prune Wisely: Regularly prune any yellowing or damaged leaves to maintain the plant's overall health. Pruning also encourages new growth and can help the plant direct energy towards developing fenestrations. Monitor for Pests: Regularly check for common houseplant pests such as thrips, spider mites, mealy bugs, and aphids. Treat any infestations promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil to prevent damage to the leaves. Dust and Clean: Keep the leaves free of dust and debris by gently wiping them with a damp cloth. This helps the plant photosynthesize more efficiently and keeps the leaves looking their best. Stable Environment: Avoid sudden changes in temperature, humidity, or light conditions. Try to maintain a stable environment to prevent stress, which can impact leaf health. Use a watering meter to monitor soil moisture levels and only water when the plant is dry. Never let your plant sit dry for too long, as this can prevent leaves from producing fenestrations in the same way that underwatering can.
Fenestrated Monstera leaf with crispy brown edges
How to Chop and Propagate for Fenestration
Sometimes, when our fenestrated plants have reached the top of the moss pole without growing fully fenestrated leaves, it can be best to chop off the top of the plant, and to propagate it to start again. This gives your plants another chance to produce mature leaves as they climb the pole. You may also want to do this if your plant has reached the top of its moss pole without producing any fenestrated leaves at all. When your plants haven't made any splits or holes, it can be helpful to propagate the top and allow it to start again. Let's dive in to how to propagate a plant to encourage fenestrated leaves:
Step 1: Select the Right Plant
Choose a healthy, mature plant with multiple growth nodes. Ensure the plant is well-watered and in good health a few days before propagating.
Step 2: Identify the Cutting Point
Look for a section of the stem that has at least one or two nodes, which are small bumps where leaves and roots grow. We've included a photograph to illustrate where the node is on a plant. The cutting should ideally have a couple of healthy leaves as well.
Step 3: Make the Cut
Using a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or scissors, make a clean cut just below a node. Ensure your tools are sanitized to prevent infections.
Step 4: Prepare the Cutting
Remove the lower leaves to expose the nodes, which will be submerged in water or soil. If the cutting has any aerial roots, leave them intact, as they can help with propagation.
Step 5: Root the Cutting
Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring at least one node is submerged. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh. Plant the cutting in well-draining soil, ensuring the nodes are buried. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
Step 6: Provide Optimal Conditions
Place the cutting in a bright, indirect light location. Avoid direct sunlight as it can scorch the cutting. Maintain high humidity around the cutting by misting regularly or using a humidity dome. Keep the temperature consistent, ideally between 21-27 °C (70-80 °F).
Step 7: Monitor and Wait
Roots should start developing within a few weeks. In water, you will see roots forming; in soil, you can gently tug to feel for resistance. Be patient and provide consistent care.
Encouraging Fenestrations in the New Growth
Once your cutting has rooted and starts to grow, here are some additional tips to encourage the cutting to start developing fenestrated leaves. If you don't change the environment, the new plant will grow almost identical to the old plant. Remember, the key to achieving fenestrated leaves is replicating the challenging growing conditions that the plants would normally face in the wild. Let's remind ourselves of the key factors that trigger plants to grow fenestrated leaves:
Light: Ensure the new plant gets plenty of bright, indirect light to promote healthy growth and fenestrations, like it would in the wild.
Humidity: Maintain high humidity levels to replicate the wild growing conditions. Humidity can be a key factor in achieving fenestrations.
Feeding: Start feeding the new plant with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to provide essential nutrients. In the wild, plants always have access to nutrients through the water table, so a hungry plant is unlikely to develop fenestrated leaves, as it does not have the food it needs to grow them.
Training: Support the new plant with a moss pole or trellis to encourage upright growth and development of larger, fenestrated leaves. Moss poles encourage them to size their leaves up much faster than bamboo canes or metal growing stakes. Self watering moss poles size up leaves faster due to consistent moisture at the aerial roots.
Patience: It may take a few growth cycles for fenestrations to appear, so continue providing optimal care.
Diagram of a Monstera adansonii leaf, showing where a plant node is
List Of Every Houseplant That Gets Fenestrations, Splits, Holes & Lobed Leaves
When planning our dream indoor jungle, it can be easy to get carried away buying plants with distinct leaf features, like fenestrations. We've compiled a list of all the most common houseplants with these beautiful leaf features. We've split them up into different categories, depending on what features their mature leaves get, and we've listed them in alphabetical order to make finding your favourite fenestrated plant easy. Let's dive in:
Plants With Fenestrated Leaves:
Anthurium 'Ace of Spades': Known for its bold, heart-shaped leaves with deep venation and velvety surface, this variety can develop fenestrations as it matures.
Anthurium Clarinervium: Has distinct fenestrations that add to its ornamental appeal.
Anthurium regale: Features large, heart-shaped leaves with deep venation and fenestrations.
Colocasia esculenta 'Black Magic': This variety has dark purple leaves with deep lobes and can develop fenestrations as it matures.
Monstera Dubia: Juvenile plants have entire leaves, which fenestrate as they mature.
Monstera Epipremnoides 'Esqueleto': Deeply fenestrated leaves.
Monstera Obliqua: Extreme fenestrations, often more hole than leaf.
Monstera Peru: Known for its textured leaves with fenestrations.
Monstera Siltepecana: Juvenile leaves are entire, maturing to fenestrated leaves.
Philodendron Florida Ghost: Develops fenestrations along with its unique leaf shapes.
Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma: Often referred to as the Mini Monstera, this plant develops fenestrations along with its distinctive, deeply lobed leaves.
Plants With Fenestrations & Leaf Splits:
Anthurium magnificum: This plant has large, striking leaves with fenestrations and splits
Anthurium veitchii: Known for its large, veined leaves that can develop fenestrations and splits
Anthurium wendlingeri: Known for its large, dark green leaves with fenestrations and splits
Colocasia esculenta 'Pharaoh's Mask': Features large, dark green leaves with purple veins and can develop fenestrations and splits.
Epipremnum Aureum (Golden Pothos): Under ideal conditions, mature leaves can develop splits and fenestrations.
Plants With Fenestrations, Leaf Splits, And Holes:
Epipremnum ‘Baltic Blue’: Develops fenestrations, splits, and holes as part of its natural growth.
Epipremnum Pinnatum 'Cebu Blue': Develops splits, holes, and fenestrations as it matures.
Monstera Deliciosa: Known for its iconic fenestrated, split, and holey leaves.
Monstera Deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’: Variegated form with holes, splits, and fenestrations.
Monstera Thai Constellation: Variegated form with wide splits, fenestrations, and holes in the leaves.
Plants With Leaf Holes:
Adanson's Monstera: Similar to Monstera Adansonii, with smaller leaves and holes.
Monstera Adansonii: Smaller leaves with prominent holes.
Philodendron Lacerum: Features large leaves with natural holes as they mature.
Plants With Leaf Holes & Splits:
Alocasia Polly 'African Mask Plant': Can develop holes and splits as it matures.
Colocasia esculenta 'Illustris': Known for its large, dark green leaves with prominent veins, it can develop splits and holes over time.
Dieffenbachia 'Carina': Features medium-sized green leaves with light green shades. It can develop holes and splits as it matures.
Dieffenbachia 'Compacta': This variety has smaller leaves compared to other Dieffenbachias, and it can develop holes and splits as it ages.
Dieffenbachia 'Honeydew': Known for its unique leaf patterns, this variety can also develop holes and splits over time.
Philodendron Minima: Known for its split and holey leaves, similar to Monstera.
Plants With Split Leaves:
Musa spp. 'Banana Plants': Large, split leaves to prevent tearing in the wind.
Philodendron Florida & Florida Ghost: Known for its deeply split leaves.
Ravenala Madagascariensis 'Traveller’s Palm': Large, split leaves similar to Bird of Paradise.
Schefflera Actinophylla: Commonly known as the Umbrella Tree, with large, split leaves.
Strelitzia reginae 'Bird of Paradise': Large, split leaves to withstand windy conditions.
Plants With Lobed Leaves:
Alocasia Macrorrhiza: Deeply lobed leaf growth.
Alocasia Odora: Deeply lobed leaves.
Begonia masoniana 'Iron Cross Begonia': Has leaves with a distinctive lobed shape.
Cissus antarctica 'Kangaroo Vine': Known for its lush, green foliage and ability to thrive in low light conditions.
Cissus discolor 'Rex Begonia Vine': Features striking, silver-patterned leaves with deep green and burgundy hues.
Cissus rhombifolia 'Grape Ivy': Known for its glossy, green, and lobed leaves, this plant is popular for its easy care and vigorous growth.
Cissus striata 'Miniature Grape Ivy': A smaller variety with tiny, green leaves, perfect for hanging baskets or as a ground cover in larger planters.
Coleus 'Chocolate Mint': Features deeply lobed leaves with a mix of dark chocolate and mint green colours.
Coleus 'Electric Lime': Has bright green, lobed leaves that can add a pop of colour to any indoor space.
Coleus 'Fishnet Stockings': Known for its unique green leaves with dark purple veins and lobed edges.
Coleus 'Kong Rose': Known for having large, deeply lobed leaves with a striking red and green colouration.
Coleus 'Redhead': Offers bold red, lobed leaves that stand out beautifully indoors.
Colocasia: Known for its large, lobed leaves.
Ficus carica 'Common Fig': This variety has large, rounded, and deeply lobed leaves. It's also well-known for its edible fruit.
Ficus lyrata 'Fiddle-leaf Fig': While typically known for its large, smooth leaves, some varieties can develop lobed leaves under certain conditions.
Ficus saussureana 'Loquat-leaved Fig': Features large, lobed leaves that resemble those of a loquat tree.
Oakleaf Philodendron: Features deeply lobed leaves resembling oak leaves.
Philodendron Pedatum: Known for its deeply lobed and uniquely shaped leaves.
Tetrastigma Voinierianum 'Chestnut Vine': Has deeply lobed leaves.
Plants With Lobed Leaves & Holes:
Philodendron Tortum: Has unique, deeply lobed leaves that can develop natural holes.
Plants With Lobed Leaves & Splits:
Colocasia esculenta 'Diamond Head': Known for its glossy dark purple leaves, it can develop lobes and splits as it matures.
Fatsia Japonica: Also known as Japanese Aralia, with deeply lobed and split leaves.
Philodendron Bipinnatifidum 'Selloum or Tree Philodendron': Deeply lobed and split leaves. Reclassified as Thaumatophyllum Bipinnatifidum.
Philodendron Xanadu: Features large, lobed, and split leaves.
Plants With Lobed Leaves & Fenestrations:
Anthurium crystallinum: Features large, glossy leaves with prominent fenestrations and splits
Anthurium 'Dark Mama': This variety has striking dark foliage with deep lobes and fenestrations
Colocasia esculenta 'Mojito': This variety has green leaves with dark splotches and can develop lobes and fenestrations.
How Long Does It Take To Get Fenestrated Leaves?
Patience is key, as even with the perfect environmental conditions, it can take time for the plant to mature and develop these unique leaf features. Please note, new leaf growth times are quoted for mature plants only. It may take longer for new leaves to grow on younger plants. Mature plants can stop producing fenestrated leaves at any time if their environment changes, or when their needs aren't met. Keep an eye on all new growth to monitor for any changes in the leaves. If leaves start to appear with fewer fenestrations, check through our guide later in this article. For now, let's dive in to how long it takes for plants to fenestrate, or to grow splits and holes in their leaves:
Anthurium 'Ace of Spades': Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium 'Dark Mama': Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium crystallinum: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium veitchii: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium magnificum: Mature leaves develop at about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium regale: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium wendlingeri: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 3–4 months.
Anthurium clarinervium: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, around 1–2 years of age. New leaves can appear every 3–4 months.
Begonia maculata 'Polka Dot Begonia': Mature leaves develop around 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 6–12 months. New growth appears every 4–6 weeks.
Cissus rhombifolia 'Grape Ivy': Mature leaves develop at around 2 feet (60 cm) tall, within 1 year of growth. New leaves emerge every 4–6 weeks.
Coleus 'Kong Rose': Mature leaves develop when the plant is 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, within 6–12 months. New growth emerges every 3–4 weeks.
Colocasia 'Black Magic' and 'Illustris': Mature leaves develop at around 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) tall, within 6 months to 1 year, with new growth emerging every 4–6 weeks.
Dieffenbachia 'Tropic Snow' and 'Camille': Mature leaves develop when the plant is 1–2 feet (30–60 cm) tall, within 1–2 years. New growth emerges every 4–6 weeks.
Epipremnum 'Golden Pothos': Mature leaves develop at roughly 3–4 feet (90–120 cm) tall, in 1–2 years. New leaves can appear every 4–6 weeks.
Fatsia japonica: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–2 feet (30–60 cm) tall, within the first 1–2 years. New leaves emerge every 2–3 months.
Ficus carica 'Common Fig': Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) tall, within 1–2 years. New leaves can appear every 4–6 weeks.
Ficus lyrata 'Fiddle-leaf Fig': Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 3 feet (90 cm) tall, as early as 2–3 years, with new growth emerging every 4–6 weeks.
Monstera adansonii: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) tall, within 1–2 years. New leaves appear every 4–6 weeks.
Monstera deliciosa: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 3 feet (0.91 m) tall, around 2–3 years old. New leaves emerge every 4–6 weeks.
Monstera esqueleto: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 1–1.5 feet (30–45 cm) tall, as early as 1 year. New leaves emerge every 4–6 weeks.
Philodendron bipinnatifidum: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) tall, usually within 1 year. New leaves can appear every 2–3 weeks.
Philodendron Florida Ghost: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) tall, within 1–2 years, with new leaves emerging every 4–6 weeks.
Philodendron xanadu: Mature leaves develop when the plant is about 2 feet (60 cm) tall, around 1–2 years old, with new growth emerging every 4–6 weeks.
Edited & Fact Checked By: The Houseplant Shop
Article Published: 17th December 2024
About The Houseplant Shop:
Independent Houseplant Nursery
Horticultural Specialists
Managing Over 250 Houseplant Species Onsite
Over 15 Years Of Experience With Horticulture
As head of horticulture, Sarah manages the care and propagation of over 250 plant species at a commercial houseplant nursery. With over 15 years of experience in horticulture, specializing in houseplants, Sarah has extensive expertise in plant biology, soil science, and integrated pest management. She continually reviews and integrates the latest research into her plant care guides. Dedicated to educating others, Sarah has spent years diagnosing houseplant care issues and sharing her real-world experience. Her commitment to scientific accuracy and helping people diagnose plant health issues has established her as a trusted authority and expert in the field.
The Houseplant Shop is a dedicated houseplant nursery, growing all of their own stock from their botanical library of over 250 houseplant species. The nursery staff are horticultural experts who have dedicated their lives to cultivating and nurturing over 250 different species of houseplants, focusing on Aroids, tropical plants, and NOID collectables. All their plants are grown in house in Britain to be more environmentally friendly. The nursery is proud to have been featured by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) as a 100% peat free nursery.
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How We Reviewed This Article:
Our horticultural experts continually monitor the houseplant space, and we update our articles when new information becomes available. We are committed to providing current and reliable information. If you have some information that you think would be helpful in this article, we'd love to hear from you. Our team works hard to revise articles for factual accuracy, and we regularly update our pages with new information, techniques, tips, images, trade secrets, and real world experience from the team here at the houseplant nursery. You can find a list of the article updates below.
Written By: Sarah Brooks, Head of Horticulture
Article Received: 12th December 2024
Copyright: The Houseplant Shop (https://thehouseplant.shop)
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List of Article Updates:
20th December 2024: Minor UI updates & bug fixes
Author Bio:
Author: Sarah Brooks,
Head of Horticulture at The Houseplant Shop
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